Yellow Underwear, Grapes and Luggage

Here in Perú, they don’t practice “New Year’s Resolutions.” There’s no New Year’s Eve kiss. However, there are some traditions, most of which are performed at the strike of midnight, that are supposed to bring good fortune in the year to come.

1. Take a hot shower with a bunch of herbs. Cleans out the system- better health and prosperity for the  year to come.
2. Put 12 grapes under the table. At midnight, eat each one separately with an accompanying wish for each grape that you desire to come true in the year to come.
3. If going on a big trip in the coming year, pack your suitcases and run around the block several times (with them) at the strike of midnight – brings safe travels.
4. Tie three knots in a string and put it on like a bracelet. When the knots break, your wish will come true.
5. Wear yellow underwear on New Year’s Eve for happiness in the year to come. (EVERYONE is selling yellow underwear right now!)
6. Run up the stairs and throw money down from the top to guarantee financial success in the year to come.
7. Put glasses in your pocket or wallet for good luck in money in the year to come.
8. Write down bad events of the previous year, construct a doll, put the papers inside, and burn it! – Fresh start in the new year.

My host sisters also told me that you will also have great luck if you pour a bucket of cold water over your head at midnight! And that the beaches in Perú are topless…. HA! Needless to say, I got my facts checked for #1-8, just to make sure! ☺

You usually only do one of the traditions… but I think that to increase my odds, at the strike of midnight, in my yellow underwear, I’ll run around the block 12 times with my luggage, each time stopping to eat a grape from under the table.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!! AND HAPPY BIRTHDAY MOM and BRITT!!!

Christmas in Perú

Mi Familia Peruana!

My favorite part of the Peruvian culture – the family values – especially shone this as this holiday season approached. Here, there’s little stress of the commercial side of the American Christmas as we know it- the gift giving is kept to a minimum, and the emphasis is simply on spending time with family. My family draws names every year for an “Amigo secreto” (or secret Santa), and this is the only gift each person is expected to give.

In the holiday season, “Chocolatadas” are popular here – small parties to eat paneton (Peruvian fruit cake –actually really delicious!) and drink hot chocolate. We had one at the colegio before the students had their summer break, which was a lot of fun!

Paneton - Yum!

Christmas decorations seemed a little out of place at first for this Alaskan, as it’s summertime here. Some people use lights or garland, and most have a small fake Christmas tree. The centerpiece of the decorations is the nativity scene, which is large, multi-leveled and usually involves at least 40 farm animals! (plus your random giraffe, lion, etc.)

Nativity Scene at Mi Casa

The work Christmas party for the clinic was quite the event in itself. It began with a large group sitting in a circle singing Christmas songs together. Then we went to a special mass together, which was followed by a cena – turkey, and of course paneton. Entertainment during the dinner included a choreographed dance by the nurses in santa hats, a guitar performance, many photos, and of course the secret Santa gift exchange.

Nurse Dance

As for Christmas Eve, I was told that there are generally two types of celebrations – 1) a low-key dinner and evening in with the family, ending pretty early or 2) a large family party that begins at mid-night and lasts all night long! My family never lets me down- they, of course, are the type to have the latter.

The celebrations began with a 2-hour mass. The mass on Christmas Eve was unlike anything I’ve ever experienced in the Catholic Church. In particular, in place of a homily, the baby Jesus was placed in the large decorated nativity scene. However, before this happened, everyone in the church stood in line to kiss the forehead of a small baby doll. And at the end of the mass, out came a disco ball, flashing lights, balloons, and a giant Santa to sing “Happy Birthday” to Jesus!

Back at the house, all sorts of relatives began filing in. At the strike of midnight, everyone ran around for hugs and “Feliz Navidad,” almost like a new year’s celebration. Then came the dinner… three huge turkeys to feed the family, salads, and a rice dish.

Pavo (turkey!) - a nice change

After the dinner we did the secret Santa gift exchange, which involved a lot of shouting and was pretty hilarious. Then the sound system was set up and the “Peruvian Power Hour(s)” began (see previous post- “Birthdays and Baptisms”). Basically, it involved a lot of consumption of champagne, sangria, and cerveza (via peer pressure), and of course, loads of dancing! Trying to move my hips like Peruvians is already entertaining enough, but when you throw in the fact that I am much taller than almost all of the men here, it’s even funnier.

They let me add one American song to the playlist – I chose country and I taught everyone how to line dance! ☺ (Well, attempted to.) We ate more paneton around 5am, and finally at about 6:30am, as the sun was already up, it was socially acceptable to excuse myself to go to bed. Needless to say, a Christmas experience I will never forget!

Merry Christmas!

Virgen de la Puerta

Today was another “fediaro”- holiday! While many smaller religious holidays seem to pass in the US without a lot of notice, holidays related to the Catholic religion here are a big deal. Almost nobody works, and there’s usually some form of celebration. Today was no exception- in fact, the celebrations began last night!

First, for the story:
During the 17th century, the port of Huanchaco (which is very close to Trujillo) began to flourish, and attracted a large number of pirates from the north who used to raid South American ports. In 1674, word spread that pirates were attacking parts of Ecuador and were headed south, so the people of Trujillo began to panic. They passed along the news of an inevitable attack to nearby towns, including the mountain town of Otuzco which is 70 kilometers away. The villagers spent three days in prayer and then led a procession to the entrance of town with a figure of the Immaculate Virgin, asking for help and protection. Miraculously, they were not attacked and the pirates retreated permanently.

In current times, the famous image of Mary is now regarded as Virgen de La Puerta, the queen of peace and patron of Otuzco. Otuzco holds a festival the 13th-15th of December every year, but Trujillo celebrations begin December 7th so that devotees can attend processions in both places. There’s also a pilgrimage December 13th that begins in Trujillo – people walk for two days up a mountainous road to reach Otuzco, without stopping! Apparently, if I am praying for something important and seek Mary’s help, in return I must promise to complete the pilgrimage in order to fulfill my prayers.

The festivities began last night with a mass, followed by a celebration in the streets surrounding a shrine area for the blessed mother. Bands played, people danced, and they had light shows, culminating with a big display of fireworks and even a Peruvian-Mexican Mariachi band at midnight!




Today the holiday continued with another mass and a 5-hour-long procession around the streets of La Esperanza. It was a beautiful event and yet another interesting cultural experience I feel blessed to have been a part of.

Some of the devotees smear their faces with black soot, a sign of penance

Procession through my neighborhood

Birthdays and Baptisms

I went to my second birthday party today, this time for 4-year-old Elizabeth, the daughter of Antolino and Marie. It also happened to be her baptism day. The celebrations began in the church with birthday blessings and baptisms of about 20 children all at once, and from what I gathered this happens monthly within the parish. (The baptism ceremonies are shorter here - under two minutes - and it appears they are never performed during masses). Afterward, everyone related to the newly baptized lights a candle and carries it to the picture of a decorated saint.

The party after the church ceremony went something like this:
1)   Congregate in a big circle of chairs around the living room with about 35 other people.
2)   Take a shot of red wine from a Dixie cup (ages 2 and up).
3)   Take another shot of red wine (ages 2 and up).
4)   Consume a LARGE heaping plate of food (usually rice, yuca/potatoes and some kind of meat). Successfully refuse seconds (if you’re lucky).
5)   A custom begins- I’ve affectionately named it the “Peruvian Power Hour.” (One glass per 5-10 people. Fill up the glass with beer, shove it in front of someone, watch them chug, then it’s their turn to fill the glass for the next person. Repeat… for one hour, and pray that no-one has mono).
6)   Dancing – powered by very loud sound system.
7)   Peruvian Power Hour #2.
8)   More dancing.
9)   Simultaneous Dancing + Peruvian Power Hours. (Slippery- watch your step!)
10)   Speaking loudly for the two hours that follow until your hearing returns to normal.

The cake custom of the US is hit and miss here- depends on the family. The gifts custom appears less common. But I must say, they know how to party here! It didn’t matter if you’re 90 or 9- everyone seemed to be having a great time!

Señor de los Milagros

Señor de Los Milagros, or Lord of Miracles, is a Peruvian cultural tradition I’ve been very fortunate to experience in my first month here. The name originated from the 17th century, where an earthquake destroyed all of Lima but left a mural of Christ (see picture) standing intact. Celebrations occur during various days in the month of October, and the streets are a flourish of purple and white balloons and processions of people following replicas of the painting with song and prayer.

My first experience of the procession occurred at the Colegio Especial (school for children with mental/physical disabilities) that I work at a few days a week. I have to preface this experience by saying that the small courtyard in the middle of Colegio can be quite chaotic, as over 100 grade school aged children attend this school. During recess I dodge balls and other playground equipment, running children, assistive devices, and the occasional vehicle in this space- and there’s usually only one class out there at a time.

That being said, last Tuesday in between patients, I was drawn out into the courtyard by religious music and prayers over a loudspeaker. There in the courtyard sat all of the children and their teachers, surrounding a moveable platform beautifully decorated in purple. It was quiet and calm and incredibly moving. Some students sang along and many participated by either carrying the platform from spot to spot or by contributing flowers to adorn it. I can’t really explain the feeling except to say that it seemed to be a small miracle in itself that there was such a spiritual calmness in the air of what is otherwise a rather disorganized chaos.

My second procession participation occurred later in the week right outside of my house! Every year this particular procession spans the entire district of La Esperanza. It, too, was beautiful and I am moved by the faith of the people here, which seems to be incredibly strong and prioritized, regardless of age- teenagers, children, and adults alike. Apparently, this procession, which occurs throughout Peru, is considered the largest Catholic procession in the world.